Crank Sensor Fitting

KAD 36-1 Ford-style trigger wheel and crank sensor set up

Welcome to the latest instalment of our DIY Mini Restoration series! This guide focuses on the essential task of fitting the crank sensor for the Bogus 2 Mini build. Follow our detailed instructions and practical tips to ensure precise timing for your Mini's ECU ignition system. For expert advice or assistance, don’t hesitate to contact the Mini Sport team.

No Distributor Here... Crank Sensor Installation

Most modern ECU ignitions require precise timing information, and here’s how you can achieve that with the Bogus 2 Mini.

Fitting the KAD 36-1 Trigger Wheel and Sensor

Here is the KAD 36-1 Ford-style trigger wheel and sensor setup being fitted to Bogus 2. This enables us to use a Canems ECU and Jenvey throttle bodies. The 36-1 setup is the most common aftermarket ECU setup used, although other designs are available. This eliminates the need for the old distributor.

Prepping the Pulley

Make sure you oil the pulley’s inner edge before pushing it into the casing. If dry, it will damage the oil seal. It’s also important to fit the pulley onto the casing and the crank before doing up the casing bolts. This allows the oil seal to sit more naturally. If you encounter a stiff thread, clean it by running a tap into it. If you encounter any issues or need clarification during your crank sensor installation, our team is here to assist. Contact us today!

Adjusting the Kit Components

The KAD 36-1 Ford-style kit comes with a longer-than-standard bolt. This is done intentionally so customers can trim the bolt to the depth they require, depending on their engine’s setup and the pulley system they are running.

Standard bolt and longer bolt for the Crank Sensor fitting

Marking for Timing

Timing marks on the chain cover and crank pulley are, at best, a vague guide to get an engine started. Mark the larger TDC tooth and the pulley indent in white paint to make them more discernible to a strobe light. With our Canems system, timing and mapping are completed on a dyno. For detailed guidance and support on fitting your crank sensor, get in touch with our team. We’re here to help you achieve the best results. 

Timing marks on the chain and on the crank pulley as a guide

Securing the Timing Wheel

We ensured the crank-bolt washer was fitted to retain the timing wheel and crank pulley. We also used Loctite as there is no room for the usual lock-tab washer to retain the assembly. If the crank bolt works loose, you could lose your timing mark, resulting in incorrect initial timing. Avoid turning the engine anti-clockwise using this bolt, as it can move the timing mark. An oily crank thread can prevent Loctite from working correctly, so clean thoroughly. A large C-spanner was made to lock off the ring holding the timing wheel in place

Crank bolt washer fitted to retain the timing wheel and crank pulley.

Custom Bracket for the Sensor

Due to time constraints, we custom made a bracket normally supplied with the KAD kit to support the outer sensor bars. When setting up, ensure this sensor is both accessible and protected. Consider the types of belt used; here, we’re using a conventional V-belt. Timing was set by placing the timing wheel in place on the retaining cup, with the missing tooth on TDC, then turning nine teeth back from the gap and placing that tooth at the TDC mark. Different ECUs require different setups. The gap between the sensor and teeth should be between 0.75mm and 1mm, depending on the ECU.

If you have any questions or need help with your crank sensor installation, contact us today. Our experts are ready to assist with all your technical needs.

Custom made bracket by mini sport as part of the crank sensor sitting

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This guide is meant to provide general guidance and a step-by-step approach to build your Mini's Gearbox. It is always recommended to contact a trusted professional if you are unsure about any part of the process or lack the necessary tools and experience.