Welcome to the second instalment of our Bogus 2 build series! In this series, we'll be following the entire process of rebuilding a Mini from the ground up. Today, we're diving into the exciting (and sometimes messy) world of the disassembly.
Bogus 2 Dismantle: Strip Down, Inspect, Assess
The Disassembly Begins
The first step in any rebuild is the disassembly. It's important to be meticulous at this stage, saving as many parts as possible. While some components, like the carb-type fuel tank, will be replaced with injection system parts, many original parts can be reused. Labeling and photographing every part is crucial to ensure everything ends up back in its rightful place.
Unexpected Discoveries
One of the interesting things about classic Minis is what you find when you start digging in. In our donor Mini, we discovered Rover Mini Special arches hiding underneath Sports Pack arches! This kind of patchwork repair can lead to issues down the line, so it's important to address them during a rebuild.
Another discovery was the lack of inner wings behind the flip-front conversion. While flip-fronts can look cool, they can also cause serious cooling problems if not constructed correctly. Proper air flow is essential for keeping the engine from overheating, and inner wings play a vital role in directing air through the radiator.
Parting Ways with the Old and Making Room for the New
With the body shell going off to the bodyshop, it's time to remove everything else. Components like the steering rack and brake servo will be cleaned and inspected for reuse. However, some parts, like the fuel lines, can be discarded if you're planning on using upgraded parts like Goodridge hoses.
The wiring harness is another area for potential upgrades. While a complete replacement loom is an option, a custom service allows for greater control. A custom loom can be tailored to the specific needs of your build, accommodating features like upgraded cables, additional power feeds, and improved grounding.
Addressing the Rust
Rust is a common enemy of classic Minis, and our donor was no exception. The boot floor was heavily rusted, necessitating a complete panel replacement. This included the battery box, a common spot for corrosion due to battery acid and exposure to the elements.
One of the trickier areas to address was the front of the rear subframe mounting point on the heelboard. This area had rusted through completely, hidden from view by the subframe itself. Underseal can be helpful for protecting against rust, but if water gets trapped underneath it can actually accelerate corrosion.
The heelboard panel itself is replaceable, but it's a critical component for the car's rear suspension geometry. Precise positioning of new panels is essential for maintaining the structural integrity of the monocoque bodyshell.
The Hidden Dangers of Alloy
If your Mini has an alloy exhaust heat shield (which is typically found on models with catalytic converters), be aware of the potential for corrosion. The combination of dissimilar metals (alloy and steel), heat from the catalyst, and road moisture can create a real problem. In our Mini, we found corrosion at all the heat shield mounting points. To address this issue, we opted to replace the entire floor panel. While this may seem drastic, it's often the most efficient solution for a professional bodyshop.
Unearthing the Past
Our final discovery during the strip down was a poorly executed weld job on the outer sill. These welds lacked proper penetration and wouldn't provide any real strength. Unfortunately, these kinds of bodged repairs are often hidden from view during a casual inspection. This is just the first step in our Bogus 2 build journey! Stay tuned for the next installment where we'll be following the progress of the bodywork
Want to read Keeping Your Mini Alive 6th Edition Magazine? Download the PDF here
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